Since I wasn't much of a restaurant-goer in the early 2000s (I was only 10), I can't say for sure what kind of dining experience a Michelin star guaranteed back then. I imagine it was easier to compare restaurants when they were all serving somewhat similar cuisine. These days, you have everything from a S$2 soy chicken rice street hawker stall in Singapore to a $900-per-head omakase menu at Masa in New York, all earning the same star rating. How we are supposed to compare places that are so drastically different is beyond me—and frankly, I get the sense that Michelin hasn't quite figured it out either.

One exception to my commentary above is the marvel that is Restaurant Gaa in Bangkok, which so clearly excels on reputation, service, and most importantly - the food itself. Situated right in the heart of the Thong Lor district, Gaa is housed in a 60-year old Thai House. Executive Chef and owner Garima Arora, the first Indian woman to earn a Michelin star, continues to make waves in the culinary world. After earning a second star in December last year, Arora remains at the forefront of redefining Indian cuisine globally. At Gaa, her creative vision shines through in every dish, offering a unique fine dining experience that blends innovation with heritage.

With all this in mind, then, let me tell you about the tour de force of a Thursday we had.

We started our evening with a glass of bubbly in the 'Gaa Lounge' before being escorted to our table in the elegant 'Baan Ruen' dining room. After refreshing our hands with the cool towels provided, I sipped eagerly, anticipation building for the culinary journey ahead.

This is a photo of a very lovely dish called ‘Chaat’, usually a family of savoury snacks that originated in India, typically served at roadside tracks from stalls or food carts across South Asia. Here it was transformed into a concoction of sweet, bitter, umami and bitter, which was so ethereal and easy to eat it, disappearing in three mouthfuls. To be fair, that was also how we were instructed to eat it, I wasn't just showing off.

Three dainty ‘snacks’ arrived on some very distinguished porcelain men, which I thought were very cute.

The food at Gaa is not just exciting and rewarding, but genuinely innovative at every course while still staying true to Indian cuisine. It's also beautiful - look at this, a “Do it Yourself” tuna taco, which had slithers of Somsa Chilli and Khakra. It was fun to piece together the little morsel.

Bread next - or in this case, Gobi Paratha - a gently baked ball of Cauliflower bread which was excellent, and whipped homemade butter. I judge the success of a bread course in a tasting menu by how much of it I manage to avoid eating before the next dish arrives - this had all been devoured by the time the summer curry turned up.

From here on, each subsequent savoury dish seemed to not only continue the tasteful and intelligent theme, but somehow kept getting better and better. summer curry, with a deep, rich flavour of the finest quality Blue Swimmer Crab, buried alongside grilled banana leaves and coconut. Then over the top was the green apple ice, an astonishingly flavoured medley that would have been worth the price of the whole menu by itself.

Two squares of A5 Wagyu, seared beautifully and topped with the daintiest drop of ‘Thai Garam Masala’ arrived, with a dollop of smoked tofu. And if you can read that list of ingredients without wanting to dive right in, then there's something definitely wrong with you. This sat on a beautiful ruby red plate to add a bit of colour too - pretty crockery where I have to turn the plate upside down to check the brand is always welcome.

"The Tandoori Story" was easily the standout dish of the year for me, combining my favorite childhood fruit with a deeply rich curry in a very clever way.

I couldn't help but overhear the table next to mine (don’t worry, the tables are spaced comfortably apart) asking for an extra serving of the curry—such was its impact on those who tasted it. The fusion of durian and curry was a bold yet unbeatable combination, complemented by bread, chutney, and pickles, all brought together with the perfect crunch from the layer of roselle saag. I must also mention the iconic wine pairing - a natural orange wine that beautifully highlighted the flavours, and paired perfectly with the spikey king.

The Patoli, by the way - as if I need to even say - was perfect. A dainty little thing, folded and steamed tableside and packed full of pandan and coconut, was served smartly on a banana leaf. This is the kind of fine dining I want to see so much more of, traditional dishes elevated with such precision and ambition. I cooed happily as I wolfed this down, plate licked clean.

Then finally - three (as you might expect to round off a menu of this ambition) petits fours rounded off the meal, with a shot glass of Chai for good measure.

Restaurant Gaa creates food that exudes both love and passion, while presenting dishes that look like they belong in an art gallery—worthy of endless praise. The gallery-like setting and the artistry of each plate make Gaa a trailblazer, elevating and redefining Indian cuisine in a way that feels fresh and innovative, without relying on gimmicks or clever menu wordplay. I do hope I'm not boring you with yet another wildly positive review, but this wasn't going to go any other way.

Thank you to Garima Arora, the Restaurant Gaa team and Lotus for having me.

Address: 46 Sukhumvit 53 Alley, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand

Website | Instagram | Book a table HERE

2* Restaurant Gaa - Bangkok, Thailand

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