1* KOL by Santiago Lastra
I don't think I've ever waited 10 months for a restaurant reservation, but 10 months I waited, which is about standard for this hotspot in the heart of Marylebone. Although, it is also not often that one gets to visit this same particular restaurant twice in 2 weeks; I also obviously like it a lot to keep going back. I have been fortunate enough to experience KOL in two very different lights; the first for their dinner tasting menu, and the second for Arca’s one-night takeover of the Mezcaleria downstairs.
Anticipation built up, and I had to keep reminding myself not to go in with too high an expectation. KOL’s opening was delayed for three years due to Covid. It must be difficult to be a chef at what has been lauded as one of the most anticipated arrivals to the London food scene. People traverse countries and continents to eat there. It's hard enough catering for guests with a whole host of tastes, associations, preferences, but even more so with the added weight of expectation.
Footage of me enjoying a rather unique churro - with pork crackling and mezcal mousse. Sabroso!
As can only be expected for such a well-regarded restaurant, the menu was a good length, the bill - extremely reasonable. I had a table booked at KOL once before in 2021 and for a date another, but I had to cancel on both occasions. Although, experiencing Mexico for the first time a few months before put a whole new breath of informed perspective in my experience, so I’m very happy that my first visit happened when it did.
Walking inside the restaurant was very uplifting, and it was like being in a brightly painted - but stylish - Spanish casa. Some seriously cool Yucatan-inspired artwork and lightshades dangled from the ceiling and walls, lending the room atmosphere. I was handed my menu, and we ordered a round of spicy margarita’s in anticipation for the menu ahead. Our table was the best place to be sitting; a mere 2 or 3 metres away, the chefs were busy at work and you could happily spy on them.
Calamar: Squid, cashew mole, cauliflower
The Calamar dish with squid and cashew mole was the sweetest thing, causing a rupture of oooh’s and ahhh’s around the table. The thin jelly-like layer resting on top was juicy and rich throughout. Refreshing curls of cold cauliflower gave refreshing umami flavours. My friend opted for the vegan option had exactly the same reaction - maybe it’s something in KOL’s water.
Taco: Langoustine, smoked chilli, sea buckthorn
Once presented with the menus, my eye immediately zoned in on the langoustine and smoked chilli. He didn't die in vain, as a beautiful and rich dish of langoustine head and arms arrived in an intense stock. The crustacean was perfectly cooked, retaining some bite, the roasting treatment concentrating its flavours. Across the table, I could smell the smokiness of the chilli and buckthorn, the taco presented daintily on three separate palettes. The head is best bitten off and sucked monstrously, the luxurious flavour oozes out and causes a second wave of frenzy. I was sad when it was finished.
Asada
Next up, the supplement. I usually despise forking out for these, as more often than not they cost almost the full price of the entire tasting and aren’t much of a value-add. But here it was definitely worth it. A hearty slab of wagyu was smoked on the outside and silky smooth within, sitting pretty on top of the taco. The essence of summer on a plate, the flavours were earthy, with the cascabel chilli and wine elevating the dish nicely.
Purple carrot cecma, fermented blackcurrant
“Mole” from Nahuatl mōlli meaning "sauce", is a traditional sauce and marinade originally used in Mexican cuisine. Most families and restaurants have their own unique recipes special to them, and I learnt more about this during my trip to San Miguel de Allende in January. The depth of flavour in each Mole comprises of 20 - 60 ingredients, depending on the recipe. I also experienced making mole from scratch during my travels, and this knowledge just made my experience of this tasting even more special. I ended up running my finger along the plate, lapping up every slither of sauce there was left - this stuff is priceless.
Cordero - lamb neck, black mustard, pistachio, garlic, salsa morita
I'm not one to pass up on octopus, you know that. But we decided as a table to opt for the lamb option between the two to try something new, and we were not disappointed. This was tender and sweet; served with a delicate pocket of handmade tortillas on the press. I hogged it.
KOL’s menu concept overlays the techniques and heritage of Mexican cuisine with the landscape of Britain, whilst fusing both around CEE wines. As a natural wine enthusiast, it was a delight to see such a quality array of wines on the menu, all sommelier picks pairing perfectly with our tasting. KOL also makes it’s own Mezcal on-site downstairs in their Mezcaleria - more about that below.
We were given the dessert options to peruse, and the delightful flan arrived in all its yellow splendour. Served with toasted rye, barley, pear and sourdough, the flan rose beautifully and was devoured in minutes. The kitchen obviously have a sterling dessert chef; this was spot on, and the perfect ending to our lovely meal.
All in all, stunning and solid cooking. The menu has quite a few options I'd like to try out, so I will definitely be back. At £180 a head including service and drinks, it's fantastic value for this side of town, and for Kol’s reputation.
Arca’s takeover of KOL
I’m not going to waffle on too much about this event, as it was a once-in-a blue moon experience, and I don’t want to make you too envious. If my excellent first visit to KOL wasn't enough to convince me that these guys know their stuff, then the subsequent visit certainly did.
When a dish or experience transports you back to a happy memory, you know they are doing something right. Below the bustling dining room at KOL, the Mezcaleria is a secret little spot - an entirely different experience. It almost felt like we were back on the windy beach in Tulum, enjoying a fresh smoky mezcal next to a big plate of empanadas. One of the most incredible dining experiences I’ve had to date was at José Luis Hinostroza’s Arca, an immersive dining experience set in the open with gravel underfoot, glowing bulbs and copal resin. When one of my friend’s told me they were doing a takeover of KOL, I leaped at the opportunity.
The menu combined the best dishes from Arca and KOL with a flow of Mezcal-based cocktails throughout. And what an evening this was.
Dzikil Pak - Roasted pumpkin seeds, squash blossoms, queso chiapas, tostadas
Ceviche - Scallop, rhubarb, sesame
Softshell crab taco - Seaweed, serrano aiolo, xoconostle
Grilled octopus terrine - cotixas cheese tostadas, salsa macha, arugula, green corriander seeds
Seared langoustine - Sea buckthorn, plantain chip, chaya powder, manzano salsa
This dish was by far my favourite - where I had a very similar dish at Arca with grilled shrimp instead of scallop. Just heaven.
Empanada - Wagyu short rib with adobo
Service was sweet and unobtrusive. On both visits I realised after that we'd been there for four hours. I never felt I was being rushed, even when people were turned away as the restaurant was full. It might be testament to the excellent company, but it flew by. I liked that I could hear our main server softly humming himself a happy tune every time he walked past and there was no stuffiness on either floor. He was quite charming, and kept checking on how everything was, unlike some places that ignore you entirely. I'm starting to gush a bit now so I'll leave you with this - go, go go.
Thank you very much to Santiago, Max, the entire KOL team and Goyacomms for two incredible evenings. KOL is without doubt one of my top 5 favourite restaurants in London, and I will be revisiting imminently.
Address: 9 Seymour Street, London W1H 5BT