It's always a relief to find that after the dizzying excitement of the first time you fell in love with a restaurant, the third visit is just as good. Galvin at Windows is one of my favourite restaurants in London and the third dinner we had there was even more stunning than both the first and second. The dining room on the top floor of the Hotel is heavily upholstered and beautiful with luxurious flourishes. The view from the restaurant is unsurprisingly breathtaking, peering across the west of the city from the restaurant, or east from the bar. Opened in 2006, Galvin at Windows is a time-honoured landmark of the city’s fine dining repertoire. Not only is it the only skyscraper eatery actually worth visiting without the corporate credit card; fourteen years on, Galvin at Windows remains among the top eating destinations in perhaps the world’s best city for eating out.

New Head Chef Marc Hardiman and General Manager Peter Avis

Galvin’s reopening also welcomes their newest head chef Marc Hardiman, taking over from Joo Won. Previously at The Ritz London, Hardiman’s career spans over more than 10 years of ‘senior level experience’ working in numerous multi-Rosette and Michelin-starred establishments in England and Australia. The new menu centers around the ingredients found in the great British larder, in addition to Hardiman’s own travels. Peter Avis has also replaced Fred Siriex as general manager, and I had the pleasure of meeting both incredible individuals.

Gold and white were the dominant colours, and we slotted ourselves into our window-side table to begin the feast. A chilled glass of Pol Rogers Blanc de Blancs relaxed our work-weary shoulders. These black truffle canapes topped with pistachio served on a bed of moss (below) foretold the meal to come; deliciously delicate and it got the mouth watering for more.

Service is all-too-often overlooked. The painful truth is, service – alongside a number of other apparently humdrum factors – can make or break an entire dining experience. It doesn’t matter how flawless the food served by the latest highly-lauded chef on the scene might be, the whole meal is often ruined by snooty, or just plain rude, waiting staff. To add, service that’s beyond magnificent can make even the most utterly vile, almost inedible food seem almost palatable. Galvin nails both elements on the head with their glorious food and exceptional service. This is upsettingly, a true rarity even in London’s most acclaimed eateries, making Galvin such a unique place.

*Portland crab, heirloom tomatoes and fresh almonds*

I opted for the Portland crab to start, served handsomely with lashings of olive oil. A rush of acidity and texture came from the luscious tomatoes and almond. It goes without saying this dish is a marvel. My mum chose the truffle option of course, which was an absolute treat. We switched halfway, and I moaned with delight at the flavour, from the creamy lardo to the delicate taste of the truffle.

*Fettucine, Chanterelles, truffle, Lardo di colonnata*

*Marc’s sensational fillet of grass-fed dry aged beef, heritage carrots, girolles, smoked bone marrow.*

My main course of Beef had a delightful sweetness balanced out flawlessly by earthy carrots and an undercoat of my glass of 2013 Château de Pez . A smoky umami comes from a shred of bone marrow. Everything on the plate belonged to one another and it was cast iron delectable.

Galvin’s signature soufflé (raspebrry this visit) had us cooing over it. It had an amazingly smooth texture to it, each bite incredibly refreshing and tantalising. Expertly paired with Tokaji, our dessert course was a real treat. For those who know me, you’ll know that I order Apple Tartin any time I see it on the menu. Galvin’s signature concoction of this is an affectionately constructed delight, not too heavy and not too light.

Coffee and petit fours soon followed, and we rolled out into the night, a good 4 hours after we sat down, vowing to return at least three times in the next year.

Galvin at Windows is unbelievably great for upscale, technically brilliant dining. Head Chef Marc Hardiman seemingly, has his eyes in the present and the future, to bring food that transforms moments into memories. There wasn’t a single dish that was a dud, nor was the service questionable. It is also fine dining for those who actually want a proper meal, as we left hobbling to our taxi extremely full and satisfied. It won’t be long before Galvin regains it’s Michelin star.

Thank you to Marc Hardiman, Peter Avis, Rugina, Lottie from W.A.M and the entire Galvin team for a truly memorable evening. I can’t wait to return x

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Address: 22 Park Ln, Mayfair, London W1K 1BE

Galvin at Windows - Park Lane

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