Cycene by Theo Clench, Shoreditch
Cycene, derived from the Old English word for kitchen, made its debut in October 2022 with the goal of recreating the intimate ambiance of a private dinner at home. The dining space, aglow with warm lighting, is adorned with exquisite tablecloths, flickering candles, and captivating artwork, creating a setting that captivates the senses. With an exclusive capacity for just 15 guests, Cycene has swiftly become the most buzzworthy and sought-after dining destination in London.
Taking the helm at Cycene is none other than Theo Clench. His culinary journey commenced in the vibrant city of Brighton before he sought to challenge his skills in the fiercely competitive restaurant landscape of London. The pivotal chapters in Clench's career unfolded during his tenure as the head chef at Portland, an esteemed Modern European restaurant nestled in Fitzrovia. More recently, he assumed the role of executive chef at Akoko, where he brought forth an elevated interpretation of West African cuisine.
Image courtesy of the Evening Standard
Here, guests indulge in a meticulously crafted 10-course menu, a culinary journey inspired by Clench's experiences in East Asia and Australasia. The offerings reflect his fervor for seafood and game, creating a dining experience that transcends the ordinary.
Cycene deviates from its predecessor Mãos, embodying a distinctive culinary identity. It aligns more closely with the emerging trend in London of an immersive adventure, eons away from the traditional white table cloth. The restaurant introduces a captivating dining concept where the evening unfolds as a delightful "promenade." Guests commence their culinary journey in the newly introduced downstairs bar, progressing seamlessly to the dining room, with a brief interlude in the kitchen. This multi-space progression mirrors recent innovations seen in establishments like Kitchen Table and Aulis, transforming the dining experience into a truly memorable event.
The meal kicked off at the bar, where we were served bread and soup. Our waiter explained that “the virtue of soup and bread in a clay pot prepares the body and mind for what is to come”, and it certainly did just that. With lashings of gravy and an array of homemade butter, it really was the most sensational start.
We were then led upstairs, one of five other parties in the room. Strains of Placebo played, and we opted for the full tasting menu, a secret to us and one that would remain to be so for the duration of the meal, save our lovely waiter's explanations as the plates come down. A glass of Champagne relaxed our work-weary shoulders.
The first course took us over to the kitchen, where Theo and the team greeted us warmly and explained the dish to come. Tuna and wasabi tasted every bit as good as that combination sounds, served delicately on a wooden slab.
After a glass of low intervention, the triad of ‘snacks’ followed swiftly of Lava and Herring, a funky oblong Pear Duck Liver bite, and Schrenckii Hamachi and Sesame. The liver foretold the meal to come; deliciously delicate and it had my mouth watering for more.
The next course was an achingly pretty arrangement of Oyster, Oscietra caviar and Cucumber. Cycene is not averse to using the odd bit of scientific trickery, it seems, but only sparingly, and always to great effect. Some powerfully-flavoured droplets of oil added extra umami, although if you are (understandably) wincing at the unironic use of the word "umami" in a restaurant review, feel free to substitute it for "zesty flavour".
I am a huge fan of sea urchin, and unfortunately you don’t often see it on a tasting menu here in London. It was served with bottarga and coated a bed of linguine; a gorgeous balance of sweet and salty flavours. The velvety sauce lubricated each mouthful well.
Is there much more pleasing than a scallop the size of your face? I'd say no. This was cooked served in a jus of tomato and Myoga. We made light work of this. The wine paired with it went terrifically well, a Sicilian organic from Etna.
The star dish of Turbot, Lettuce and Sake had us all cooing over it. It had an amazingly smooth texture to it, the jus impossibly light and crisp. The presentation was also very easy on the eyes, the platter adding to the autumnal depth of the flavours.
The Pigeon, cherry and beetroot was the sweetest thing, causing a rupture of oooh’s and ahhh’s around the table. The crispy slither of pigeon skin was juicy and rich throughout. Refreshing curls of beetroot gave fresh flavours. I was sad when it was finished.
Chef Theo very gracefully served the last dessert, with truffle shaved table-side, and an impressive fan of wafers to peruse. The delightful tofu ice-cream arrived in all its yellow splendour, with a gentle dollop of Kaluga caviar sitting pretty on the top. The dish rose beautifully and was devoured in minutes. The kitchen obviously have a stellar team of talent; this was spot on, and the perfect ending to our lovely meal. Coffee and petit fours soon followed, and we rolled out into the night, a good 4 hours after we sat down, vowing to return at least three times next year.
So, I think you can gather that I like Cycene a lot. Chef Theo Clench’s outpost is the addition to the finer-dine food scene our city didn’t know it needed. This was one of the best meals I've had so far this year in London; it eased me into the festivities gently with plenty of rich, earthy flavours, all executed elegantly. I’ll be drumming my fingers impatiently until I get to visit again.
Thank you to Theo, Rachel, Gianluca and the rest of the stellar Cycene team for having us.
Address: Blue Mountain School 9 Chance Street, London E2 7JB